So we've been here for over two weeks but it feels like forever! It's crazy going through such an intense immersion process. A two week vacation to a foreign country is super fun and relaxing, but this is nothing like that. When we're at the training center we're usually learning from 8:15 until 5:30 with some breaks and lunch in-between. CBT is a lot more relaxed physically but a lot more culturally testing, mostly because of the language. I feel like I've been here way longer, so if I call or chat you it's because I'm craving American culture and English. English is awesome. I've already broken into my food stash, and I bought a soda and an ice cream yesterday as a treat it I think that's what heaven will be like.
I brought crayons and coloring books to do with the kids. I was thinking we could color when it was hot out maybe a day or two. No. They went crazy. I brought two books and they were completely gone. I brought them out the first day and everyone's faces just lit up. We made a mess ripping out pages for the little kids, and for some reason Tulay and Moussa claimed the books themselves and didn't like sharing. Unfortunately I did not (and do not) know the word for sharing. Every time one of the little kids wanted a new page they would come ask me, and the American part of me was like "yeah duh you can have one, go get it yourself!" No matter how many times I said yes, duh, go take one, they would still ask me. This went on for three days until the coloring books were gone. They had been giving me the papers they colored and I'd just been piling them up, and then when we had finished the books I gave them to Tulay ang Moussa and the little kids claimed old colored random pages. Not even the ones they had done, just random colored pages. I was very upset because they didn't have a book so I gathered up all the pages, did a hole punch type of thing and tied it together with a string. Then I went to a fellow trainees compound for a couple hours and when I came back, it was ruined. I don't know how or why, but there were random pieces of paper and pages everywhere. Chaos. I was horrified. If a house looked like that in the US the mom would be so angry so I was scared the adults would be annoyed I even gave them the materials. They didn't even care though. They just cleaned it up. Tulay and Moussa still look at their books every day and showed everyone in the family at least 14 times each. I learned never to bring out a whole book and don't give children under 7 paper unless you want them destroyed.
My second CBT visit was great! It was five days this time. We had language classes in the morning, hung out during the day, and and sometimes met up again at night. I feel like I'm learning the language a little slowly, but I guess that doesn't surprise me. It was pretty similar to my first experience but extended. I helped cook and clean the dishes and my sister taught me how to do laundry in a bucket by hand, while simultaneously telling me I was doing it wrong and rewashing it. I guess she was right because I tried to do more laundry when I got back to Thies and I was much You're supposed to let them soak in water, rub them completely down with a bar of soap, targeting the neckline and armpits, wring it out, and then let it soak in unsoapy water before wringing it out to dry in the sun. They also have a very specific way to roll the clothes in their hands which I'm pretty sure is impossible.
We also went to the market near our CBT site with our LCF, language group, and a current PCV in the area. It was so overwhelming. We took a taxi and from the second our taxi pulled over until we left there were people following us around calling out to us. We had one guy follow us the entire time. Another trainee caught a little boy with his hand in her bag and people would come up to us just because we were clearly foreign, trying to get us to go with them and buy things. Our LCF was not amused. We walked through the market, not really stopping at all, all the way to the ocean. It was really pretty, but in the middle of a fish market in the late afternoon, so the smell was pretty rancid. We got to see the fishing boats which reminded me of the old, old wooden ships from Norway.
I can't really think of much else going on, just integrating, learning the language, etc. We go to CBT for 11 days (happy early bday mom!!!!!!!) and when we come back we get our permanent sites!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Things I've discovered about Kolda: there are really huge camel spiders. There are snakes. There are Green Mambas. It's really, really, really far.
Some responses to comments!
Yes, there are other forms of music here. Radios are really common. My family doesn't have electricity but they do have a crank radio and they all have phones that can play music and videos. My sisters are obsessed with Rihanna (sp???). I've also heard a lot of J Biebs, Psy, and Chris Brown. They don't know who Britney Spears is. I know this because my host sister has one of her concert shirts, and I got really excited the first time I saw it and just started yelling "BRITNEY!" and nodding a lot. She didn't understand.
I have not taken any pictures yet because I'm trying to focus in integration! Taking out my camera could also be a very long day of taking pictures and then being required to give them copies, which is really expensive.
Ajaramma!
Friday, March 22, 2013
Wednesday, March 13, 2013
Just call me Tulaaye
So a couple days ago we got our language placements and I found out that I will be learning Fulakunda, a version of Pulaar. Wolof is the most prevalent language in Senegal but Pulaar is second and is also a popular minority language all around West Africa. So the day after (or the day of, I can't even remember) we got our study groups and our language coaches and piled in a van to head off to Community Based Training (CBT). I'm placed in a town called Samba Loude with two other trainees. We were one of the only sites without electricity, which really is not a big deal. I felt like people freaked out a lot when I told them I was moving to Africa because they don't have electricity or plumbing or paved roads etc but those are some of the easiest things to adjust to. I used my flashlight at night and was totally fine.
In my village (and most of Senegal) people live in compounds and who lives there depends on how big the family is. My family has one dad and one mom (polygamy is common) and that's where I get confused. Before we left we did a quick run down of greetings (which are super important here, as are names), but other than that I was completely in the dark on language, and people speak so fast I couldn't really understand anyway. I smiled and nodded a lot. There are a bunch of kids in the compound (I think around 15) and I can't tell who is a child or if they're nieces/nephews or aunts or anything. Aside from the main house, which has a small gathering room about the size of an average living room, three bedrooms, a "kitchen" and a "bathroom." The kitchen has no electricity or windows so they cook by flashlight at night. I have my own room as required by the PC.
I love my family. They are so great and welcoming and wonderful. Here there is a thing called a "tokrah" which basically means namesake. When placed in homes volunteers are usually named after someone in the family. At CBT site my name is Tulaay Djahanka (sp!). I didn't understand this at first, and once I understood I wasn't saying it right. For some reason I was saying Tu-la instead of Tu-lye. So my tokrah is one of the daughters of my father, also named Tulaay and she is currently my best friend in the whole world. We pretty much did everything together. The first day and a half her and her brother Moussa (my second best friend) tried to teach me how to say things. I drew a body in my notebook and they told me the terms, and I learned to count (kind of), and I would try to say phrases from my textbook and I would never be sure they understood. The kids, especially Tulaay 1 and Moussa, have a fascination with notebooks and writing. They'll take my notebook and write in it and draw pictures and be so proud of themselves. I did notice, however, that they did not always comprehend what they were doing. For example Tulaay wrote some letters once and showed me only to discover she had copied them upside down. She also must have gone to school at one point because she had a notebook with some French in it (all Senegalese schools are taught in French) but she wouldn't always say the right word at he right time. For example she had a bunch of words written down and would go down the list, but she would miss "bonjour." I guess in school they more memorize things than actually learn them. She is very clever and really likes to learn but I honestly don't think the school properly taught her.
Tulaay also taught me how to do chores. This is part of integration since I will be living here for two years. I learned how to wash dishes in the Senegalese way and wash the floor, and next time I hope one of my sisters will teach my how to do laundry. Tulaay and I washed the floor with a bucket and an old sweater that served as a rag. It did the job and my father was very impressed. Now, the dishes. What a complicated spot for a health volunteer. Food is served in large bowls and mostly the family eats communally with their hands, but some use spoons. A problem a lot of volunteers face is a lack of hand washing before eating, but my family has had volunteers before and they provide me at least with a hand washing station and soap. I only eat with Tulaay; I'm not sure why. The Pulaar are know for having the men and women eat seperately, but in my house there are three bowls, with Tulaay and I at the last one. I think it's because I'm a "guest" but I cant't be sure. Tulaay does wash her hands. I saw Babaa eat with a spoon once or twice, and several other family members, but again, I'm not really sure what's going on. So we eat communally, and then after lunch the dishes are put outside to dry in the sun. The problem is that animals are free range here and come right up to the bowl and eat the leftovers. That (to me) is distasteful enough, but while I was washing the dishes I noticed I was sitting in a field of animal feces. We also did not change the water while we were washing the dishes, and it was pretty filthy by the end. To their credit they did not dump the dirty water in the compound, they made me take it outside. I think my family is health concious they just aren't sure what is considered healthy.
Another lovely anecdote that displays how dub I am: Not wanting to put anyone out, I told everyone I could put up my mosquito net by myself. Well, bedtime rolled around and I still hadn't done it so I attempted to do it by flashlight by myself. FORESHADOWING: I was unsuccessful. I slept without a net. I'm on malaria medication, one night won't kill me. However, I woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of some sort of critter in my room. I couldn't sleep for fear it'd burrow into some orafice to make its new home and kill me. The next night I had a net and felt much safer, but last night I heard my friend yet again and was convinced it was desperate to tear apart my net and kill me. I am not sure what it is; it sounds like a rodent but it could also be a lizard; worse case scenario its a snake; best case its an adorable snuggly kitten. On that note, good thing I got my rabies shot today!!!!!!!!!! Something I didn't know: They will never stop giving me shots.
Reading this over it all sounds so negative, but I really did have a great time at CBT. I wish they prepared out language a little better, but I love my family, the food was so good, I have a great Language coach, and it's been a great condition. I usually despise fish (I almost threw up the fish served at the training center) but the fish in Samba Loude was awesome. Also, on a note of how much I love my family my baaba just called to ask how I was doing. He is so thoughtful!!!!
So we're at the training center for another day and then we head back to CBT site where we will spend 10 days!
In my village (and most of Senegal) people live in compounds and who lives there depends on how big the family is. My family has one dad and one mom (polygamy is common) and that's where I get confused. Before we left we did a quick run down of greetings (which are super important here, as are names), but other than that I was completely in the dark on language, and people speak so fast I couldn't really understand anyway. I smiled and nodded a lot. There are a bunch of kids in the compound (I think around 15) and I can't tell who is a child or if they're nieces/nephews or aunts or anything. Aside from the main house, which has a small gathering room about the size of an average living room, three bedrooms, a "kitchen" and a "bathroom." The kitchen has no electricity or windows so they cook by flashlight at night. I have my own room as required by the PC.
I love my family. They are so great and welcoming and wonderful. Here there is a thing called a "tokrah" which basically means namesake. When placed in homes volunteers are usually named after someone in the family. At CBT site my name is Tulaay Djahanka (sp!). I didn't understand this at first, and once I understood I wasn't saying it right. For some reason I was saying Tu-la instead of Tu-lye. So my tokrah is one of the daughters of my father, also named Tulaay and she is currently my best friend in the whole world. We pretty much did everything together. The first day and a half her and her brother Moussa (my second best friend) tried to teach me how to say things. I drew a body in my notebook and they told me the terms, and I learned to count (kind of), and I would try to say phrases from my textbook and I would never be sure they understood. The kids, especially Tulaay 1 and Moussa, have a fascination with notebooks and writing. They'll take my notebook and write in it and draw pictures and be so proud of themselves. I did notice, however, that they did not always comprehend what they were doing. For example Tulaay wrote some letters once and showed me only to discover she had copied them upside down. She also must have gone to school at one point because she had a notebook with some French in it (all Senegalese schools are taught in French) but she wouldn't always say the right word at he right time. For example she had a bunch of words written down and would go down the list, but she would miss "bonjour." I guess in school they more memorize things than actually learn them. She is very clever and really likes to learn but I honestly don't think the school properly taught her.
Tulaay also taught me how to do chores. This is part of integration since I will be living here for two years. I learned how to wash dishes in the Senegalese way and wash the floor, and next time I hope one of my sisters will teach my how to do laundry. Tulaay and I washed the floor with a bucket and an old sweater that served as a rag. It did the job and my father was very impressed. Now, the dishes. What a complicated spot for a health volunteer. Food is served in large bowls and mostly the family eats communally with their hands, but some use spoons. A problem a lot of volunteers face is a lack of hand washing before eating, but my family has had volunteers before and they provide me at least with a hand washing station and soap. I only eat with Tulaay; I'm not sure why. The Pulaar are know for having the men and women eat seperately, but in my house there are three bowls, with Tulaay and I at the last one. I think it's because I'm a "guest" but I cant't be sure. Tulaay does wash her hands. I saw Babaa eat with a spoon once or twice, and several other family members, but again, I'm not really sure what's going on. So we eat communally, and then after lunch the dishes are put outside to dry in the sun. The problem is that animals are free range here and come right up to the bowl and eat the leftovers. That (to me) is distasteful enough, but while I was washing the dishes I noticed I was sitting in a field of animal feces. We also did not change the water while we were washing the dishes, and it was pretty filthy by the end. To their credit they did not dump the dirty water in the compound, they made me take it outside. I think my family is health concious they just aren't sure what is considered healthy.
Another lovely anecdote that displays how dub I am: Not wanting to put anyone out, I told everyone I could put up my mosquito net by myself. Well, bedtime rolled around and I still hadn't done it so I attempted to do it by flashlight by myself. FORESHADOWING: I was unsuccessful. I slept without a net. I'm on malaria medication, one night won't kill me. However, I woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of some sort of critter in my room. I couldn't sleep for fear it'd burrow into some orafice to make its new home and kill me. The next night I had a net and felt much safer, but last night I heard my friend yet again and was convinced it was desperate to tear apart my net and kill me. I am not sure what it is; it sounds like a rodent but it could also be a lizard; worse case scenario its a snake; best case its an adorable snuggly kitten. On that note, good thing I got my rabies shot today!!!!!!!!!! Something I didn't know: They will never stop giving me shots.
Reading this over it all sounds so negative, but I really did have a great time at CBT. I wish they prepared out language a little better, but I love my family, the food was so good, I have a great Language coach, and it's been a great condition. I usually despise fish (I almost threw up the fish served at the training center) but the fish in Samba Loude was awesome. Also, on a note of how much I love my family my baaba just called to ask how I was doing. He is so thoughtful!!!!
So we're at the training center for another day and then we head back to CBT site where we will spend 10 days!
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Schedules and First Impressions
Today was pretty intense. We had session after session, which is like being back in college except instead of a few classes a day we have 6. Other PCVs compare training to a summer camp, and it does remind me of like a band camp or like a sports camp where it can be pretty intense and learn a lot. We have breakfast every day from 7-8:15 (you don't have to be there the whole time), and after breakfast you have two sessions, a tea/coffee break, two sessions, lunch, two sessions, dinner, and we're done. Last night we watched a documentary on Peace Corps (in French) but it was optional and we usually have our nights free.
Right now we are focusing a lot of culture, which will be essential to integration later on. Yesterday we had a cultural fair, where the staff taught us things like how to eat, what to eat, how to act, what to wear, etc. One of the things we discussed was the idea of "toubab" which in Senegal essentially translates to foreigner, and this is a term that some volunteers have trouble with. In the States it's generally taboo to discuss difference; it's politically incorrect. Here it's part of the culture to discuss differences and people often define their identity around their differences such as their ethic group, region, etc. Anyone outside of that is different. Everyone who is Westernized is called toubab. We were warned that this does bother some volunteers, who consider it a slur or feel like outsiders because of it, but we are encouraged to realize this is just part of the culture. I'm interested to see how I'll respond after being called toubab 3,000 times a day, but as of right now its not bothering me.
Today we had a culture session, a Senegad section, and a bunch of security sessions. Senegad is something I am really super looking forward to. It's basically a women's rights group in Senegal working toward more equality, but they've started trying to get the men involved in their programs, which makes complete sense. We got a ton of info and I took a ton of notes, but of course I don't have any on me right now. They're coming back in April to give more details and I'm really looking forward to it!
Senegal has a definite waste management problem in the sense that garbage is everywhere. Afterwards I realized that I spent a lot of time looking down to see what I was stepping in rather than taking all of it in. There are not sidewalks, so you have to walk in the streets while simultaneously trying not to get hit by a car or biker. I do have to give credit to Senegalese drivers though because they can avoid each other an pedestrians very well; no one looks scared like I know I did the first time I stepped out. We bought sugar and tea because tomorrow we are going to community based training!! There we will start to learn our language (there are 6 major languages in Senegal) and integrate into the culture. We had a second year PCV with us to show us around and talk to the shopkeeper and everything, and then she took us to a French store to buy anything else we might need. I bought ice cream.
After dinner we went to the local bar. Most people in Senegal do not drink since they are Muslim, but we're pretty close to a Catholic community. By bar of course I mean a building at the end of a dirt road that had beers in a refrigerator and three tables. It was fun though and an easy way to break the ice with other PC trainees.
To answer Mike Gattus about the TP thing, here they go into a latrine, pour water into the area, and wipe with their hand. Afterwards they wash their hands, but this is why it is taboo to use the left hand in anything that one does.
Until Next Time!
Right now we are focusing a lot of culture, which will be essential to integration later on. Yesterday we had a cultural fair, where the staff taught us things like how to eat, what to eat, how to act, what to wear, etc. One of the things we discussed was the idea of "toubab" which in Senegal essentially translates to foreigner, and this is a term that some volunteers have trouble with. In the States it's generally taboo to discuss difference; it's politically incorrect. Here it's part of the culture to discuss differences and people often define their identity around their differences such as their ethic group, region, etc. Anyone outside of that is different. Everyone who is Westernized is called toubab. We were warned that this does bother some volunteers, who consider it a slur or feel like outsiders because of it, but we are encouraged to realize this is just part of the culture. I'm interested to see how I'll respond after being called toubab 3,000 times a day, but as of right now its not bothering me.
Today we had a culture session, a Senegad section, and a bunch of security sessions. Senegad is something I am really super looking forward to. It's basically a women's rights group in Senegal working toward more equality, but they've started trying to get the men involved in their programs, which makes complete sense. We got a ton of info and I took a ton of notes, but of course I don't have any on me right now. They're coming back in April to give more details and I'm really looking forward to it!
Senegal has a definite waste management problem in the sense that garbage is everywhere. Afterwards I realized that I spent a lot of time looking down to see what I was stepping in rather than taking all of it in. There are not sidewalks, so you have to walk in the streets while simultaneously trying not to get hit by a car or biker. I do have to give credit to Senegalese drivers though because they can avoid each other an pedestrians very well; no one looks scared like I know I did the first time I stepped out. We bought sugar and tea because tomorrow we are going to community based training!! There we will start to learn our language (there are 6 major languages in Senegal) and integrate into the culture. We had a second year PCV with us to show us around and talk to the shopkeeper and everything, and then she took us to a French store to buy anything else we might need. I bought ice cream.
After dinner we went to the local bar. Most people in Senegal do not drink since they are Muslim, but we're pretty close to a Catholic community. By bar of course I mean a building at the end of a dirt road that had beers in a refrigerator and three tables. It was fun though and an easy way to break the ice with other PC trainees.
To answer Mike Gattus about the TP thing, here they go into a latrine, pour water into the area, and wipe with their hand. Afterwards they wash their hands, but this is why it is taboo to use the left hand in anything that one does.
Until Next Time!
Friday, March 8, 2013
Finally here! Everything has been so amazing, already loving this experience and feeling right at home. All of the PCVs met up down in DC on Tuesday, where we had staging, which is pretty much just an introduction to make sure we know how great but at times difficult the experience will be. We had Maureen, who was a really great facilitator! There are 41 volunteers in Senegal and we also had 10 in staging with us going to The Gambia, which is the country inside Senegal (Senegal is Pac Man and The Gambia is its mouth). Senegal was the French colony and The Gambia was the British's colony; from what I've heard they're mostly similar except the "main languages"; no one really speaks French or English once you get away from the cities anyway.
Got into Dakar around 6 am West African time and took a bus about an hour and half outside of the city to Thies (pronounced Chess) to the PC compound. When we walked out of the plane was immediatly hit with humidity and ocean air! It can get surprisingly chilly with the wind though. It's the dry season now though, so I can't even imagine what it's going to be like during the wet/hot season. The compound is really nice! Four of us share a room and there's a men's room and a ladies room. Something that's going to gross everyone out and I won't go into detail- people don't really use toilet paper here! Right now we have plumbing but once we get to site we won't have that luxury. You can also buy toilet paper, but it's expensive and not really worth the money.
Yesterday was a great day and everyone was so welcoming. We were all super jet lagged so they did introductions and then let us rest. In the afternoon we had a legit drum circle. They taught us a traditional dance (which most of us looked silly doing) and we so patient. It was awesome. While they were trying to learn a bunch of local kids lined up outside of the gate, and towards the end they were let in. Some of them danced with us and a lot of them showed us what we were supposed to look like when dancing, but all were super cute. The older ones knew most of the dances but some of the younger ones were on my level.
Another thing I have to mention is the food. It's awesome. I kind of thought I'd lose weight when I got here but now I'm not so sure. People here eat communally out of a giant bowl. At PC we use spoons and have 5 to a bowl, but outside most people use their hands and it varies how many. Breakfast has been beans and bread (fun fact I learned that most American bread has sugar in it and here they don't do that- so much better!) with either coffee or tea. Tea is really huge here and they have a second breakfast sort of thing in the mid morning where you have tea or coffee and more bread. The instant coffee is actually really good too. Lunch yesterday was rice, vegetables and beef and reminded me of Chinese or Indian food from home, and dinner they made spaghetti (which I think was to ease us in) with meat sauce and salad with super good Senegalese dressing. We already drink a ton of water and they have a water cooler in most rooms to keep us hydrated.
The Senegalese are so nice and welcoming! Most speak English in the camp, but that won't be the case outside. They've gauged our French level, and most people will greet you in French first. I was really nervous about that since I haven't taken a French course in four years, but I surprised myself and remembered what I'll call survival French. I want to get better at it but I don't know how likely it is outside of the cities. School is taught in French but it's more of a lecture style so they learn to read and write it but not necessarily speak it.
Classes start this afternoon and we go out to our language classes on Sunday!
Bismallah!
Got into Dakar around 6 am West African time and took a bus about an hour and half outside of the city to Thies (pronounced Chess) to the PC compound. When we walked out of the plane was immediatly hit with humidity and ocean air! It can get surprisingly chilly with the wind though. It's the dry season now though, so I can't even imagine what it's going to be like during the wet/hot season. The compound is really nice! Four of us share a room and there's a men's room and a ladies room. Something that's going to gross everyone out and I won't go into detail- people don't really use toilet paper here! Right now we have plumbing but once we get to site we won't have that luxury. You can also buy toilet paper, but it's expensive and not really worth the money.
Yesterday was a great day and everyone was so welcoming. We were all super jet lagged so they did introductions and then let us rest. In the afternoon we had a legit drum circle. They taught us a traditional dance (which most of us looked silly doing) and we so patient. It was awesome. While they were trying to learn a bunch of local kids lined up outside of the gate, and towards the end they were let in. Some of them danced with us and a lot of them showed us what we were supposed to look like when dancing, but all were super cute. The older ones knew most of the dances but some of the younger ones were on my level.
Another thing I have to mention is the food. It's awesome. I kind of thought I'd lose weight when I got here but now I'm not so sure. People here eat communally out of a giant bowl. At PC we use spoons and have 5 to a bowl, but outside most people use their hands and it varies how many. Breakfast has been beans and bread (fun fact I learned that most American bread has sugar in it and here they don't do that- so much better!) with either coffee or tea. Tea is really huge here and they have a second breakfast sort of thing in the mid morning where you have tea or coffee and more bread. The instant coffee is actually really good too. Lunch yesterday was rice, vegetables and beef and reminded me of Chinese or Indian food from home, and dinner they made spaghetti (which I think was to ease us in) with meat sauce and salad with super good Senegalese dressing. We already drink a ton of water and they have a water cooler in most rooms to keep us hydrated.
The Senegalese are so nice and welcoming! Most speak English in the camp, but that won't be the case outside. They've gauged our French level, and most people will greet you in French first. I was really nervous about that since I haven't taken a French course in four years, but I surprised myself and remembered what I'll call survival French. I want to get better at it but I don't know how likely it is outside of the cities. School is taught in French but it's more of a lecture style so they learn to read and write it but not necessarily speak it.
Classes start this afternoon and we go out to our language classes on Sunday!
Bismallah!
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